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环境支付快速时尚的真实成本
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为少数精英保留即时满足的日子已经一去不复返了。随着快速时尚的兴起,你可以炫耀你最喜欢的明星演员的风格,低价,低价9.99美元,但这个星球为这些“廉价”纺织品付出的代价并不是那么实惠。
快速时尚不仅仅是从时装表演到服装架的快速火灾周转的术语;它描绘了一种用低于标准材料制成的衣服泛滥的图片,这些材料的制作可以像制作时一样快速地进行更换。曾几何时,时装业每年运营两个周期,春夏季和冬季/秋季,但和Zara等零售巨头现在运营多达52个周期 – 即每周一个。这种快速周转创造了一个多管齐下的道德,污染问题, 垃圾填埋场溢出,资源减少以及整体浪费感。
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如果速度,效率和可负担性是进步的标志,那么时装业已经取得了巨大的进步,在某些方面,确实令人钦佩。快速时尚的第一次亮相在20世纪60年代开始崭露头角。随着年轻一代开始购买越来越多的廉价服装,零售商被迫以价格而不是质量或个人风格进行竞争。直到20世纪90年代末到 21, H&M, 世纪初,专门的快速时装零售商才开始在美国广受欢迎,这些零售商在欧洲已经广为人知。任何能够以最低成本生产出可行产品的人都可以保持零售价格低廉,同时仍能获利。为了维持快速时尚模式,零售商依赖廉价材料,廉价劳动力,并引发消费者的心理需求,以跟上最新趋势。由于服装生产的加价很少,快时尚零售商必须出售大量服装以赚取利润。
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为了购买这些价格实惠的衣服,我们付出了最近刚刚曝光的价格。创造所需的所有材料需要很多资源以满足对新服装的不断需求。 Savers是一家受欢迎的美国旧货连锁店,据估计,为了生产制作单件T恤所需的棉花,需要多达700加仑的水;一条牛仔裤最多可以带1800加仑的水。毒性并不止于此。棉花是喷洒最多的作物之一,需要大量的农药。为了解决这个问题并保持低成本,零售商已经转向使用更多的合成纤维,但这些合成纺织品需要的水量要少得多,它们会产生大量的温室气体。根据 世界资源研究所(WRI)“2015年纺织品聚酯生产释放约7060亿公斤(1.5万亿磅)温室气体,相当于185个燃煤电厂的年度排放量”。这根本不是一种权衡。
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在一篇文章中,世界资源研究所报告说,纺织工业占所有工业水污染的约20%。据报道,快速时尚产业因使用含铅染料而受到抨击。染色和加工过程中使用的水成为工厂的有毒流失。在最终产品到达消费者之后,水污染持续很长时间。随着聚酯等石油基纺织品的使用越来越多,我们无意中增加了我们不断增长的产品 塑料问题。 Phys.org描绘了一幅令人震惊的画面,“当涤纶服装在家用洗衣机中洗涤时,它们会脱落微纤维,增加微纤维的含量。 我们海洋中的塑料。这些微纤维很小,很容易通过污水和污水处理厂进入我们的水道,但由于它们不会生物降解,因此对水生生物构成严重威胁。浮游生物等小型生物吃微纤维,然后沿着食物链上升到人类食用的鱼类和贝类。”
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The 世界正在购买比以往更多的服装。根据世界资源研究所的数据,2014年我们购买的服装比2000年增加了60%,但每件服装只保留了一半。结果? 垃圾填埋场充满了每年近260亿磅的衣服,由合成材料制成,经常被染成有毒化学物质,可以渗入土壤和地下水。纤维本身不可生物降解,因此在衣服开始分解之前可能需要长达20年的时间。为了更加环保,许多消费者决定捐出他们不合时宜的服装,但是一周后衣服不合时宜,捐款很快就会堆积起来。问题是很多人在像Goodwill这样的旧货店进行筛选,正在寻找折扣质量;不是廉价制造的服装,只是从零售价格下降了一点点所以服装只是坐在那里迫使传入的捐款进入 垃圾填埋场.
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我们一定会在某个时候用完房间。该世界人口迅速增长。 UN.org的项目是 到2030年,世界人口将增长超过10亿人。距离仅仅10年左右,随着越来越多的人需要更多的衣服和更多的资源来制造这种服装。面对人口增长,零售商将如何维持快速时尚模式?据推测,他们的消费者付出了巨大的代价。环境收费只是快速时尚产业未付的一项法案,还有道德问题和社会经济劳动。一个闪亮的亮点是消费者,在纪录片制作者等人的帮助下
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来源
https://fashionista.com/2016/06/what-is-fast-fashion
https://phys.org/news/2018-01-environmental-fast-fashion.html
http://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics
http://www.businessinsider.com/goodwill-overrun-with-fast-fashion-donations-2018-2
https://www.savers.com/sites/default/files/reuse_report_2017_sav_0.pdf
https://www.npr.org/2016/04/08/473513620/what-happens-when-fashion-becomes-fast-disposable-and-cheap
http://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html
https://www.forbes.com/sites/quora/2017/07/26/fast-fashion-is-a-disaster-for-women-and-the-environment/#6e633b3b1fa4
https://qz.com/1222569/fast-fashion-is-causing-an-environmental-emergency/[/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container][fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”no” hundred_percent_height=”no” hundred_percent_height_scroll=”no” hundred_percent_height_center_content=”yes” equal_height_columns=”no” menu_anchor=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”center center” background_repeat=”no-repeat” fade=”no” background_parallax=”none” enable_mobile=”no” parallax_speed=”0.3″ video_mp4=”” video_webm=”” video_ogv=”” video_url=”” video_aspect_ratio=”16:9″ video_loop=”yes” video_mute=”yes” video_preview_image=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” margin_top=”50px” margin_bottom=”” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=””][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”1_1″ layout=”1_1″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” dimension_margin=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_separator style_type=”single solid” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” sep_color=”rgba(193,25,120,0.73)” top_margin=”5%” bottom_margin=”5%” border_size=”1″ icon=”” icon_circle=”yes” icon_circle_color=”” width=”25%” alignment=”center” /][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]
冲浪……
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