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鞋类行业对环境的负面影响已有详细记录。该行业使用许多危险化学品,对环境和员工产生重大不利影响。 从原材料到工厂再到消费者的复杂价值链使这更加复杂。
根据麻省理工学院领导的生命周期评估,一双典型的跑鞋产生30磅的一氧化碳排放,相当于将一个100瓦的灯泡保持一周。 2010年,消费者在全球购买了近250亿双鞋。
[/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”2_5″ layout=”2_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_imageframe image_id=”11001″ max_width=”” style_type=”glow” stylecolor=”” hover_type=”zoomin” bordersize=”” bordercolor=”” borderradius=”” align=”center” lightbox=”no” gallery_id=”” lightbox_image=”” alt=”” link=”” linktarget=”_self” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=””]https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/allbirds_shoes.jpg[/fusion_imageframe][/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container][fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”no” hundred_percent_height=”no” hundred_percent_height_scroll=”no” hundred_percent_height_center_content=”yes” equal_height_columns=”no” menu_anchor=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/1-8.jpg” background_position=”center center” background_repeat=”no-repeat” fade=”no” background_parallax=”none” enable_mobile=”no” parallax_speed=”0.3″ video_mp4=”” video_webm=”” video_ogv=”” video_url=”” video_aspect_ratio=”16:9″ video_loop=”yes” video_mute=”yes” video_preview_image=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=””][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”2_5″ layout=”2_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” undefined=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”0px” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”3_5″ layout=”3_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”rgba(255,255,255,0.86)” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” undefined=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”40px” padding_right=”25px” padding_bottom=”25px” padding_left=”25px” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”0px” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]
特别是皮革是有问题的。根据其他研究, 20-30%的皮革在鞋类期间作为废物丢弃生产。 3 在E.U.制革厂,固体废物约为<1,200,000吨/年。鞣制的碎屑是有毒的,并且由于其通常的高铬含量而对人类健康和环境具有潜在危险。
目前,制鞋商必须维持废物处理的高成本,并且还遇到地方和国家环境法律的若干问题,因为它们产生大量非常污染的废物。此外,由于存在有毒化合物,废物处理非常昂贵,并且涉及高能耗(用于运输,处理,物理处理等)。 4
一些制鞋商正在注意,并开始努力提高他们的可持续性得分。例如,耐克表示, 71%的鞋类现在包含在自己的制造过程中由废品制成的材料,包括旧鞋和其他废料。 5 它还聘请了一名可持续发展官,负责领导减少废物,公平劳动实践和改善全球供应链管理的工作。
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这些努力旨在实现“闭环”制造的目标,其消除废品并实现原材料的可持续性。但是,虽然巨大的鞋类制造商正在注意并迈出可持续发展的第一步,但其他公司已经开始实现这些目标等等。
其中一家公司是Allbirds公司,其所有原材料均来自全球认证的可持续来源,包括羊毛,树木,甘蔗,再生塑料瓶,蓖麻油和再生纸板。
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公司历史
鞋子制造商Allbirds诞生于创始人Tim Brown与Joey Zwillinger合作的时候。来自新西兰的职业足球运动员和美国工程师一起开始设计一种革命性的羊毛面料,由新西兰美利奴羊毛和其他天然材料制成。该公司认为制鞋业经常忽视大自然母亲的材料,转而采用更便宜的合成替代品,这应该会改变。 7 今天,该公司在短短两年内销售了惊人的100万双羊毛鞋。 8
当布朗首次推出Kickstarter活动以衡量消费者对羊毛鞋的兴趣时,该活动爆发了,他在四天内卖出了12万美元的鞋子 9 布朗很快发现Zwillinger帮助他执行并兑现了他的承诺。前期消息传递和独特的材料故事引起了客户的共鸣,风格成为一种即时的经典。
如今,员工已发展到100人,公司每周都会回复数百条客户评论。到目前为止,该公司已收到<2750万美元</ strong>的投资,估值<3.85亿美元。创始人的目标是成为一家价值数十亿美元的公司。 10
[/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container][fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”no” hundred_percent_height=”no” hundred_percent_height_scroll=”no” hundred_percent_height_center_content=”yes” equal_height_columns=”no” menu_anchor=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”center center” background_repeat=”no-repeat” fade=”no” background_parallax=”none” enable_mobile=”no” parallax_speed=”0.3″ video_mp4=”” video_webm=”” video_ogv=”” video_url=”” video_aspect_ratio=”16:9″ video_loop=”yes” video_mute=”yes” video_preview_image=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” padding_top=”45px” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=””][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”1_1″ layout=”1_1″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” undefined=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”10px” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]
制品
[/fusion_text][fusion_separator style_type=”double solid” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” sep_color=”#cccccc” top_margin=”” bottom_margin=”30px” border_size=”” icon=”fa-arrow-alt-circle-down fas” icon_circle=”” icon_circle_color=”” width=”” alignment=”center” /][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”2_5″ layout=”2_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_imageframe image_id=”2736″ max_width=”” style_type=”glow” stylecolor=”” hover_type=”zoomin” bordersize=”” bordercolor=”” borderradius=”” align=”center” lightbox=”no” gallery_id=”” lightbox_image=”” alt=”” link=”” linktarget=”_self” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=””]https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/14-2-1.jpg[/fusion_imageframe][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”3_5″ layout=”3_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]该公司今天生产限量版男女鞋和童鞋。他们柔软温暖的羊毛跑步者和躺椅在寒冷的天气里表现良好,而他们轻盈飘逸的树木跑步者,躺椅,船长和糖味在温暖的天气里顺利进行。他们经营着一家全球发售的网上商店,以及旧金山,纽约,洛杉矶,多伦多和惠灵顿的五家零售店。当它于2016年3月首次推出单一款式,95美元的羊毛运动鞋时,时间杂志称Allbirds是“世界上最舒适的鞋子。” 11 [/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container][fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”no” hundred_percent_height=”no” hundred_percent_height_scroll=”no” hundred_percent_height_center_content=”yes” equal_height_columns=”no” menu_anchor=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/12-66.jpg” background_position=”center center” background_repeat=”no-repeat” fade=”no” background_parallax=”none” enable_mobile=”no” parallax_speed=”0.3″ video_mp4=”” video_webm=”” video_ogv=”” video_url=”” video_aspect_ratio=”16:9″ video_loop=”yes” video_mute=”yes” video_preview_image=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=””][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”3_5″ layout=”3_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”rgba(255,255,255,0.84)” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” undefined=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”40px” padding_right=”25px” padding_bottom=”25px” padding_left=”25px” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”0px” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]
创新和想法
在瑞典对鞋业影响的研究中,结果表明材料生产对应于最高的环境影响 80% 整个生命周期。包括每千克贡献最多的材料 皮革,羊毛,尼龙,铝,合成橡胶, PET塑料,PU塑料和粘胶。该研究还表明,将产品生产转移到工作条件差,健康问题和缺乏适当环境立法的欠发达国家的趋势,不仅引起了客户的关注,也引起了政府和整个行业的关注。 12
考虑到这些问题,Allbird设计并开发了一种鞋,可最大限度地减少鞋制造业的大部分负面贡献。它通过从全球认证的可持续来源采购他们的鞋子原材料来实现这一目标。而不是传统的皮革,尼龙和合成橡胶,Allbirds的三个主要组成部分 鞋类是羊毛,树木和甘蔗。
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来自新西兰美利奴绵羊的羊毛是超细的,这使得它具有透气性,温度调节性和吸湿性,并且没有传统羊毛的刺激性搔痒感。与典型合成鞋中使用的材料相比,羊毛工艺使用 60%的能量。 13
Allbirds鞋子中使用的第二种材料是树木。该公司采购天然可再生纤维材料,采用Tencel(™)Lyocell技术制成的树木制成。这些树木起源于南非种植园,最大限度地减少了肥料,依赖降雨,而不是灌溉。与传统材料相比,这种材料使用 95%更少的水,并将公司的碳足迹减少一半。 14
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最后,Allbirds鞋子的第三个组成部分是甘蔗,用于制作Sweetfoam(™)鞋底。甘蔗是如此的自给自足,当它被加工时,它的生物质被提取以为工厂提供动力并使明年的作物受精。 15
鞋中使用的辅助材料也来自创新材料。 Allbirds鞋带由回收的塑料瓶制成。添加蓖麻籽油有助于增加鞋垫的天然含量。甚至包装也是用90%的再生纸板制成的。
Allbirds早期意识到消费者希望了解产品和材料。他们还希望供应链具有透明度,并相信他们支持的品牌可以做更多事情。 15 公司兑现了这一承诺。
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合作
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确保其原材料的全球认证和可持续采购流程不是任何公司都可以独自完成的。 Allbirds依靠与国际公认的标准和审核合作,以确保高度遵守公司的使命。
羊毛的可持续性是通过新西兰的ZQ Merino等组织开发的指数来衡量的,该组织负责监督羊毛行业。他们确保为Allbirds采购的羊毛符合高标准的农业,土地管理和动物福利。
[/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”2_5″ layout=”2_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_imageframe image_id=”11427″ max_width=”” style_type=”glow” stylecolor=”” hover_type=”zoomin” bordersize=”” bordercolor=”” borderradius=”” align=”center” lightbox=”no” gallery_id=”” lightbox_image=”” alt=”” link=”” linktarget=”_self” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=””]https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/14-63.jpg[/fusion_imageframe][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”2_5″ layout=”2_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_separator style_type=”none” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” sep_color=”” top_margin=”25px” bottom_margin=”” border_size=”” icon=”” icon_circle=”” icon_circle_color=”” width=”” alignment=”center” /][fusion_imageframe image_id=”11547″ max_width=”” style_type=”glow” stylecolor=”” hover_type=”zoomin” bordersize=”” bordercolor=”” borderradius=”” align=”center” lightbox=”no” gallery_id=”” lightbox_image=”” alt=”” link=”” linktarget=”_self” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=””]https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/17-60.jpg[/fusion_imageframe][/fusion_builder_column][fusion_builder_column type=”3_5″ layout=”1_1″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=”” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]鞋子的树木组件由森林管理委员会认证,该委员会确保材料符合严格的标准,以保护森林和动物以及依赖它们的人。 17
用于制造SweetFoam(™)的甘蔗来自巴西南部,甘蔗种植园依赖于雨水,而不是灌溉。它是一种完全可再生的资源,可以快速生长,在此过程中从大气中去除碳。依靠Proforest全球标准确保合规性和严格标准,并由第三方对农场进行额外审核。 17 [/fusion_text][/fusion_builder_column][/fusion_builder_row][/fusion_builder_container][fusion_builder_container hundred_percent=”no” hundred_percent_height=”no” hundred_percent_height_scroll=”no” hundred_percent_height_center_content=”yes” equal_height_columns=”no” menu_anchor=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”” background_image=”https://www.earthsquad.global/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/10-89.jpg” background_position=”center center” background_repeat=”no-repeat” fade=”no” background_parallax=”none” enable_mobile=”no” parallax_speed=”0.3″ video_mp4=”” video_webm=”” video_ogv=”” video_url=”” video_aspect_ratio=”16:9″ video_loop=”yes” video_mute=”yes” video_preview_image=”” border_size=”” border_color=”” border_style=”solid” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”” padding_top=”” padding_right=”” padding_bottom=”” padding_left=””][fusion_builder_row][fusion_builder_column type=”3_5″ layout=”3_5″ spacing=”” center_content=”no” link=”” target=”_self” min_height=”” hide_on_mobile=”small-visibility,medium-visibility,large-visibility” class=”” id=”” background_color=”rgba(255,255,255,0.88)” background_image=”” background_position=”left top” undefined=”” background_repeat=”no-repeat” hover_type=”none” border_size=”0″ border_color=”” border_style=”solid” border_position=”all” padding_top=”40px” padding_right=”25px” padding_bottom=”25px” padding_left=”25px” margin_top=”” margin_bottom=”0px” animation_type=”” animation_direction=”left” animation_speed=”0.3″ animation_offset=”” last=”no”][fusion_text columns=”” column_min_width=”” column_spacing=”” rule_style=”default” rule_size=”” rule_color=”” class=”” id=””]
Allbirds的另一个优势是它与旧金山的技术社区合作。自推出以来,他们通过与VC社区的联系获得了极为积极的媒体关注,包括被福布斯称为“令人震惊的舒适”,BuzzFeed称为“轻量级羊毛奇迹”,以及Business Insider的“可笑柔软,透气和支持”。 19
该公司正处于成长阶段,正在为Pop-in @ Nordstrom和Outdoor Voices等零售商组织特别收藏。在线,您可以从旧金山,惠灵顿和洛杉矶市中心开始虚拟参观全球所有地点。
如果您喜欢这家公司及其使命,您只需购买一双95美元的鞋子即可获得支持。或者几双。 25岁的格雷格·利勒斯(Greg Liles)说:“我不喜欢购买多对它们,因为它们是环保型的,而且它们是可持续的。”纽约市的一位舞蹈演员Greg Liles称他为“在城里闲逛”鞋子。“ 20
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在瑞典研究分析了瑞典制鞋业对环境的影响时,研究人员概述了鞋业转型的最佳案例,其中包括鞋类消费量减少,电力更绿,鞋子更轻,废物管理更好当皮革变得更加坚韧时,它会“强烈地”减少高达50%的环境影响。
Allbird符合这些指标,通过将羊毛的影响减少60%来实现更好的效果,来自的影响织物95%和完全可再生的糖鞋底的影响。对公司的支持可能有助于为最严重的污染行业(如制鞋业)创建替代品的生态系统。这将使可持续原材料来源的持续发展成为可能,使我们能够比以前认为的更接近最佳情况。
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